The encyclopedia · Product & Design · Product decision · 2019
Gucci sold a $890 'balaclava' with red lips — during Black History Month
Launched Feb 6, 2019, pulled Feb 7 — apology, a CEO flight to Harlem, and a letter to 18,000 staff: 'a powerful learning moment.'
Gucci · 2019-02
What happened
In early February 2019, Gucci put a $890 'Balaclava Knit Top' on sale — a black wool turtleneck that pulled up over the lower half of the face, with a cut-out and oversized red lips around the mouth. On February 6, Keisha Ka'oir tweeted: 'Today Gucci released their Balaclava Knit Top. Sigh. Really @Gucci? Really?' The backlash ran from exasperation to outrage — and it landed in Black History Month, weeks after Prada withdrew blackface-imagery keychains from a Manhattan storefront, and in the same week Virginia's governor was answering for a blackface yearbook photograph.
Gucci moved in a day. On February 7 the brand tweeted: 'Gucci deeply apologizes for the offense caused by the wool balaclava jumper. We consider diversity to be a fundamental value to be fully upheld, respected, and at the forefront of every decision we make.' It confirmed the item had been 'immediately removed from our online store and all physical stores' and said it was 'fully committed to increasing diversity throughout our organization and turning this incident into a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond.'
The reckoning kept going. On February 13, creative director Alessandro Michele wrote to Gucci's 18,000 employees that the sweater had been a tribute to performance artist Leigh Bowery, but added: 'The fact that, contrarily to my intentions, that turtle-neck jumper evoked a racist imagery causes me the greatest grief. It is therefore necessary taking full accountability.' Gucci's chief executive agreed to fly from Italy to Harlem to meet Daniel 'Dapper Dan' Day, while Michele promised 'a series of immediate actions across the world' on inclusivity and cultural awareness.
Why it happened
- A design that read to the room as blackface cleared every gate between studio and online store without anyone asking what else it looked like.
- The launch fell in Black History Month, weeks after Prada's own blackface imagery was pulled — the brand ignored a pattern that was then a live news story.
- The apology cost a day; the repair cost a CEO flight to Harlem, a letter to 18,000 staff and a standing diversity programme — the price of one unexamined reference.
The lesson
An homage to Leigh Bowery is still a blackface sweater if that is what the room sees — approval gates that never ask 'what else does this read as?' are the real failure.
Aftermath
Gucci pulled the jumper everywhere within a day, apologised publicly, and followed with executive meetings in Harlem and a global programme of diversity actions promised by Michele to its 18,000 staff. The episode became, alongside Burberry's noose hoodie the same season, the reference case for how luxury brands fail cultural review and pay for it in institutional change.
Sources
- Gucci apologizes after social media users say sweater resembles blackface — CNN (Feb 7, 2019)
- Gucci creative director says unintended racist imagery of $890 sweater causes him 'grief' — NBC News (Feb 13, 2019)
- Gucci withdraws jumper after 'blackface' backlash — BBC News (Feb 7, 2019)
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