The encyclopedia · Product & Design · Operational decision · 2024–2025
Loro Piana placed under court supervision for labour exploitation in Italian supply chain
The Milan Tribunal found workers making Loro Piana cashmere for €4/hour in unauthorised workshops — the brand was put under court administration for a year.
Loro Piana · 2025-07-14
What happened
On 14 July 2025, the Milan Tribunal placed Loro Piana under judicial administration for one year, following evidence of labour exploitation in its Italian supply chain. The court found that the ultra-luxury cashmere brand, owned by LVMH, had subcontracted production through a network of front companies to unauthorised workshops in Lombardy where migrant workers — some undocumented — were paid as little as €4 per hour for shifts of up to 13 hours, often in unsafe conditions lacking fire exits and proper machinery.
The investigation stemmed from a 2024 police inspection that uncovered makeshift dormitories, dangerous machinery, and widespread safety violations at factories linked to Loro Piana's official supplier, Evergreen Fashion Group Srl. The court's 26-page ruling, reviewed by Glossy, stated that Loro Piana 'could not have been unaware' of the conditions. Internal evidence — emails, tech packs, size charts, and product samples — confirmed that items produced in these factories were destined for Loro Piana. The brand was fined over €240,000 for the violations.
Loro Piana acknowledged the court's notification, claiming it was unaware of the unauthorised subcontractors until 20 May 2025, and said it ended its relationship with the supplier within 24 hours. The brand condemned the practices and pledged full cooperation with authorities. The court-appointed commissioner, Micaela Cecca, was tasked with verifying improvements in supply chain oversight, with the possibility of early release if conditions are met — as occurred with Dior, Armani, and Valentino.
The case was the fifth time a luxury brand had been placed under judicial administration in Italy for labour abuses in its supply chain, following Dior (October 2023), Armani (January 2024), Valentino (April 2024), and another case. The pattern exposed a systemic gap in the 'Made in Italy' luxury model: brands outsourced production through intermediaries that shielded them from direct responsibility, while their marketing continued to emphasise craftsmanship and ethical sourcing.
Why it happened
- Loro Piana's supply chain used intermediaries and front companies that created legal distance between the brand and the factories, hiding exploitation until a regulator looked
- Third-party audits by QIMA and Nexia in 2022 and 2023 missed the violations because they did not include on-site factory inspections, relying on documentation review instead
- The brand's claim of ignorance was contradicted by internal evidence — emails, tech packs and product samples showed Loro Piana's own teams were coordinating production with the unauthorised workshops
- The 'Made in Italy' label acted as a trust buffer that attracted less scrutiny than fast-fashion chains, letting the same exploitation pattern recur across 5 brands before the Milan court intervened
The lesson
Luxury's supply chain is as vulnerable to exploitation as fast fashion's — the 'Made in Italy' label offers no legal protection once a regulator looks past the intermediaries.
Aftermath
Loro Piana was placed under supervision of court-appointed commissioner Micaela Cecca for one year, starting 14 July 2025. The administration could be lifted early if conditions are met, as happened with Dior (October 2023), Armani (January 2024), and Valentino (April 2024). In May 2025, the Prefecture of Milan introduced a memorandum of understanding on legality in fashion supply chains, signed by trade associations, unions, and legal authorities. The case contributed to a broader reckoning with labour practices in Italian luxury manufacturing, though no industry-wide reform has been enacted.
Sources
- Glossy: Inside the Loro Piana scandal — labour abuse, court oversight and the myth of sustainable luxury
- Forbes: Italian Court Reprimands Loro Piana Over Worker Abuse Allegations
- CPP Luxury: Loro Piana placed under judicial control in Italy over alleged labour exploitation
- WWD — Loro Piana Cleared of Judicial Administration
- Modaes — Loro Piana under receivership in Italy accused of labor exploitation
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