The encyclopedia · Marketing & Brand · Strategic decision · 2023
Alexander McQueen lost its creative edge — and 60% of its revenue in three years
After Sarah Burton left, the brand's creative direction faltered, its store network ballooned, and sneakers became 80% of sales. Revenue fell 60%.
Alexander McQueen · 2023-09
What happened
Alexander McQueen entered a severe crisis after creative director Sarah Burton departed in September 2023, ending a 26-year tenure that had defined the brand since its founder's death. Her successor Seán McGirr failed to maintain creative or commercial momentum, and the creative void coincided with years of over-expansion that left McQueen with 135 stores — far more than its niche position could support. The brand had also become dependent on sneakers, which at one point generated up to 80% of revenue, leaving it exposed when footwear trends shifted.
The combination of creative drift, retail over-expansion, and product concentration proved devastating. Between 2022 and 2025, the brand's revenue fell an estimated 60%, to around €700 million. Kering, facing its own group-wide sales decline, launched a strategic review of McQueen in November 2025. The restructuring included cutting approximately 55 jobs in the London headquarters and 54 positions at Italian manufacturing sites — roughly one-third of staff at each location — and closing more than half of the 135 stores. The brand was described as near a disastrous loss.
In June 2026, Kering appointed Gianfranco D'Attis, former CEO of Prada, as McQueen's new CEO with a mandate to restore the brand. Kering stated McQueen was not for sale and committed to a three-year turnaround plan. A permanent creative director had not yet been named.
Why it happened
- Sarah Burton's departure in September 2023 severed the brand's creative continuity; successor Seán McGirr failed to maintain commercial or critical momentum.
- Under Kering's ownership, McQueen expanded to 135 directly operated stores, a footprint disproportionate to its niche-luxury position that generated unsustainable costs.
- The brand became over-reliant on sneakers (up to 80% of revenue), leaving it exposed when footwear trends shifted and the sneaker market cooled.
- No hedge existed for any of the three risks: key-person dependence on the creative director, over-expansion, or product concentration.
The lesson
A luxury brand whose creative identity depends on one person needs a succession plan for when that person leaves. Alexander McQueen had none, and three years of creative drift cost 60% of its revenue.
Aftermath
Kering launched a strategic review of Alexander McQueen in November 2025, cutting about one-third of staff in London and Italy, and planning to close more than half of 135 stores. Gianfranco D'Attis was appointed CEO in June 2026 with a three-year turnaround mandate. The brand had not named a permanent creative director as of mid-2026. Kering stated McQueen would not be sold.
Sources
- NSS Magazine — Alexander McQueen layoffs Italy, Kering restructuring 2026
- New Wave Magazine — The Bigger Picture for Kering's Alexander McQueen Following the Appointment of a New CEO
- Modaes — Kering opens era of adjustments with layoffs and strategic review at Alexander McQueen (Oct 2025)
- Fashion Sizzle — Alexander McQueen is not for sale: Kering announces major restructuring (Nov 2025)
spotted an error? The club wants to know.
More like this
EU fined Gucci, Chloé and Loewe €157M for fixing resale prices across Europe
Roberto Cavalli ran seven months without a CEO — then its Swiss site and 80 jobs went
Valentino's bag unit subcontracted to illegal workshops — a Milan court took it over
Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →

Comments · 0
Sign in to join the comments.