The encyclopedia · People & Management · Operational decision · 2025–2026
BasicNet bought Woolrich Europe, then told 139 workers to move to Turin or quit
Weeks after the €90M takeover, the new owner ordered Bologna and Milan emptied — resignees would get no benefits. Strikes and political revolt forced a retreat.
BasicNet · Woolrich Europe · 2025-12-05
What happened
Woolrich, the American outdoor label founded in 1830, was rebuilt in Europe by its Bologna licensee WP Lavori in Corso, which took control in 2016 and passed the majority to the private equity fund L-Gam in September 2018. In mid-November 2025 BasicNet — the Turin group behind Kappa, K-Way, Superga and Sebago — bought the Woolrich brand for Europe and 100% of Woolrich Europe from L-Gam for €90 million.
Within weeks the new owner announced the closure of the Bologna and Milan offices and a mass transfer of all 139 office workers — 109 in Bologna, 30 in Milan — to BasicNet's Turin headquarters. Out of 229 employees, only 90 store staff were excluded. The alternative to moving was resigning, which under Italian law would have meant no Naspi unemployment benefit.
Unions called it a disguised collective dismissal — 'prendere o lasciare', take it or leave it — and opened a hot winter: a permanent picket at the Bologna gates, an overtime ban and strikes. The mayor of Bologna asked the company to stop; the Emilia-Romagna region called the unilateral mass transfers unacceptable and convened mediation, warning they amounted to masked layoffs.
On 30 January 2026 BasicNet retreated. The ultimatum was replaced by three options: transfer to Turin with heavy incentives, remain in Bologna or Milan until the end of March 2027, or leave voluntarily with a package. The consolidation will still happen — but negotiated, slower, and with a bill attached.
Why it happened
- The acquirer announced the transfer weeks after closing, before any consultation — a collective-dismissal shape delivered as individual transfers, which unions could lawfully fight
- The resign-or-relocate framing made the offer worse than redundancy, because voluntary resignation forfeits Italian unemployment benefit
- Bologna is not a town where 109 office jobs disappear quietly — the mayor, the region and three union federations all had standing to intervene
- BasicNet needed the €90M asset integrated fast and chose speed over consent, paying for it later in incentives and delay
The lesson
Relocating an acquired workforce is a negotiation, not an announcement — an ultimatum that forfeits people's safety net turns a cost synergy into a strike, a political fight, and a pricier deal.
Aftermath
The 30 January 2026 agreement keeps the move to Turin as the end state, with transfers incentivised, Bologna and Milan open until March 2027, and voluntary exits paid. Unions and the region stay at the table over social buffers. Woolrich Europe's stores continue under BasicNet, which now owns the brand outright for Europe.
Sources
- Il Resto del Carlino — Woolrich, a rischio 139 posti di lavoro. Sindacati sul piede di guerra (5 Dec 2025)
- Regione Emilia-Romagna — comunicato: trasferimenti di massa unilaterali inaccettabili (2025)
- BolognaToday — Crisi Woolrich: accordo tra azienda e lavoratori (30 Jan 2026)
- RaiNews TGR — Woolrich: oltre cento trasferimenti dal bolognese (Dec 2025)
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