Li-Ning's runway collection looked like wartime Japanese uniforms to Chinese buyers

Li-Ning, the sportswear brand founded by the Olympic gymnast of the same name, had spent years rebuilding itself as the face of 'guochao' — Chinese-style streetwear with patriotic appeal. Its 2022 autumn/winter 'Dream Chaser' runway show, held at an airport in September, was meant to reinforce that narrative with aviation-inspired designs.

Days after the show, online observers noticed that some coats and hats resembled the uniforms of the Imperial Japanese Army that occupied China during World War II. The resemblance — olive-green colouring, belted coats and flap-eared caps — triggered a wave of nationalist anger. Instead of apologising quickly, two Li-Ning executives posted on social media that consumers lacked education about Chinese history and design, which intensified the backlash.

Li-Ning finally issued an apology on 19 October 2022 and said the design was inspired by ancient Chinese helmets and outdoor gear. By then the damage was done: the company's Hong Kong-listed shares had fallen sharply, wiping out roughly HK$12.3 billion in market value within days. The episode became a textbook example of how a brand's own patriotic positioning can turn a design dispute into a national-reputation crisis.