Kookaï dressed French women for thirty years — then a hundred stores couldn't pay the rent

Kookaï was a French women's prêt-à-porter brand that rose to prominence in the 1990s, known for accessible, fashion-forward clothing. At its peak it operated internationally, with stores in France, Spain, Switzerland, the United States and Australia. In France alone it ran approximately 100 shops.

By the early 2020s the brand was in decline. French prêt-à-porter faced a structural squeeze: online competition, shifting consumer spending away from mid-range fashion, and rising retail rents. Kookaï's revenue was 'losing speed', and its treasury was insufficient to fund ongoing operations.

In February 2023, Kookaï was placed in redressement judiciaire — court-supervised receivership — by the Paris Commercial Court. A six-month observation period froze debts and allowed the company to prepare a continuation plan. But by August 2023, revenue had deteriorated further and the treasury could not finance the proposed recovery.

On 15 September 2023, the Paris Commercial Court opened the path to a buyout, inviting acquisition offers for Kookaï France. The alternative was liquidation. The court's decision aimed to preserve jobs, pay salaries and potentially open the capital to institutional investors. The brand's international operations were not part of the French proceedings.