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The encyclopedia · Finance & Accounting · Strategic decision · 2022–2025

Kering swung to a net loss — the year the Gucci bet ran out

FY2025: revenue -13% to €14.7B, operating income down 33%, a €29M net loss and Gucci still falling. Kering's new CEO is selling assets to buy time.

Kering · 2026-02-10

What happened

On 10 February 2026 Kering published full-year 2025 results that formalised three years of decline at France's second-largest luxury group. Revenue fell 13% as reported and 10% on a comparable basis to €14,675 million. Recurring operating income dropped 33% to €1,631 million, with the operating margin down to 11.1% from 14.5%. Including non-recurring items the group posted a net loss, group share, of €29 million; recurring net income was €532 million, down 56%. Net debt stood at €8 billion, cut by €2.5 billion during the year.

The arithmetic of the decline runs through one house. Gucci's revenue fell 19% on a comparable basis to €6 billion, with recurring operating income of €966 million at a 16.1% margin, down 4.9 points. Because Gucci still earns most of the group's profit, its contraction dragged the whole income statement with it. Saint Laurent fell 6% on a comparable basis to €2.6 billion; Bottega Veneta grew 3% to €1.7 billion with a record fourth quarter; the other houses declined 6%.

The response belongs to Luca de Meo, the CEO brought in to run the reset: strengthening the balance sheet, tightening costs and making strategic choices — above all the sale of Kering Beauté to L'Oréal, reclassified as a discontinued operation, with closing expected in the first half of 2026 and an exceptional dividend of €1.00 per share attached. There were signs of stabilisation: fourth-quarter revenue fell 9% as reported but only 3% on a comparable basis. De Meo said the 2025 performance 'does not reflect the Group's true potential' and promised a leaner, faster Kering in 2026.

The case is one of concentration. Kering's margin structure had been built on a single brand's creative momentum; when Gucci's desirability faded there was no second engine large enough to carry the group, and the loss year forced the sale of assets to finance the turnaround.

Why it happened

  • Concentration was the strategy: Gucci's boom built the group's margins, so the group's income statement became a leveraged bet on one brand's creative momentum
  • When Gucci's desirability faded, the smaller houses could not absorb the fall — Bottega Veneta grew 3% on a base less than a third of Gucci's revenue
  • The loss year forces asset sales: Kering Beauté goes to L'Oréal, with an exceptional dividend keeping shareholders patient while the restructuring runs
  • An 11.1% operating margin is roughly half what the group earned at the peak — the sequential fourth-quarter improvement shows direction, but the annual numbers show the depth of the hole
What it cost€29M net loss; operating income down 33%costly

The lesson

A portfolio of houses is not diversification if one house carries the profits. When the flagship stalls, the group discovers its margin was concentration in disguise.

Aftermath

De Meo presents the roadmap at a Capital Markets Day on 16 April, built on brand desirability, organisational effectiveness and financial discipline, with a promise of improved margins and cash generation in 2026. The Kering Beauté sale to L'Oréal closes in the first half of 2026 and net debt is already down €2.5 billion. Kering enters 2026 smaller and leaner on paper, with one large problem unchanged: rebuilding Gucci, still shrinking, while paying down the debt the boom years left behind.

Sources

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