The encyclopedia · Finance & Accounting · Strategic decision · 2024–2026
Gucci carried 60% of Kering's profit — then fell 22% and the bill arrived
FY2025: revenue down 13%, net income divided by ten. Kering sold its beauty arm for $4bn, shuttered stores by the hundred, hired a new CEO.
Kering · Gucci · 2026-02-10
What happened
For years Kering's accounts were really Gucci's accounts: the Florentine house generated 41% of group sales and more than 60% of recurring operating profit. Then Gucci's sales began to fall. Presented on 10 February 2026, Kering's FY2025 results showed the dependence priced in full: group revenue of €14.67 billion, down 13% (restated of the Beauty division); Gucci down 22% for the year at €6 billion; and net income of €72 million — divided by more than ten versus 2024.
The response under Luca de Meo, CEO since September 2025, was a four-part triage. Cash: the Beauty division was sold to L'Oréal for $4 billion, closing in the first half of 2026, helping cut net debt by €4.7 billion to €3.3 billion by June 2026. Footprint: after 75 net store closures in 2025, another 84 were shut in the first half of 2026 against a target of 100 for the year — a 5% reduction of the directly operated network. Portfolio: Alexander McQueen, 5% of sales but heavy losses, was put into strategic review with job cuts on the table.
The plan was presented at a Capital Markets Day in Florence on 16 April 2026 under the name 'ReconKering'. By the first half of 2026 the group was back to comparable growth (+1%), with Gucci's decline narrowing to -2% in the second quarter on new handbag lines. But the arithmetic of the crisis year remains: one brand carried the group, the brand stumbled, and the group spent €4 billion of assets and 159 stores to buy itself a second chance.
Why it happened
- Letting one brand supply over 60% of operating profit is not diversification — it is a single point of failure with a portfolio attached
- Kering spent the Gucci boom paying for other houses instead of de-risking the dependence, so when Gucci fell there was no cushion, only debt: €8 billion at end-2025
- Store closures follow revenue with a lag — the network had been built for sales levels that were already gone, and 159 closures in 18 months is the unwinding
- Selling the beauty division to L'Oréal raised cash but surrendered the group's most stable cash-flow line to its biggest rival — a measure of how urgent the balance sheet had become
The lesson
A portfolio is only as diversified as its profit mix — when one house earns 60% of the operating profit, the group has one business, and its downturn becomes a restructuring.
Aftermath
Kering entered 2026 with net debt cut to €3.3 billion, the L'Oréal beauty deal closing, and the ReconKering roadmap running: fewer stores, a portfolio ranked by priority, and Gucci rebuilt around its heritage lines. H1 2026 brought the first comparable growth in two years (+1%), with Gucci at -2% and improving. Against FY2025's €72 million net income, that is the size of the climb left.
Sources
- France 24 — Kering, toujours plombé par Gucci, voit son bénéfice net plonger (10 Feb 2026)
- Kering — 2026 first-half results press release: net debt €3.3bn, 84 net closures (Jul 2026)
- Journal du Luxe — Kering renoue avec la croissance au premier semestre 2026 (29 Jul 2026)
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