The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 1884–2021
Jaeger dressed royalty for 133 years — then private equity dressed it in debt
The British brand that invented the camel hair coat entered administration twice in three years. M&S bought just the name for £5M.
Jaeger · Better Capital · Edinburgh Woollen Mill · Marks & Spencer · 2021-01-11
What happened
Jaeger was founded in 1884 by Lewis Tomalin, capitalizing on German hygienist Dr Gustav Jaeger's theories about natural animal fibres. By the early 20th century, it had become one of Britain's most distinguished clothing brands, earning a Royal Warrant by 1910. The company invented the camel hair coat, pioneered cashmere and alpaca knitwear, and dressed Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe. Its flagship Regent Street store was a London institution.
The trouble began in 2012 when Harold Tillman sold Jaeger to Better Capital, a private equity firm, for £19.5 million. Better Capital loaded the company with debt and extracted management fees. Five years later, in April 2017, Jaeger entered administration. Philip Day's Edinburgh Woollen Mill bought the brand out of administration — but not the company, leaving 700 staff with uncertain futures and suppliers unpaid.
The second rescue was even shorter. In November 2020, Jaeger entered administration again. This time, in January 2021, Marks & Spencer acquired only the Jaeger brand name — not the 63 shops, not the 13 concessions, not the employees — for £5 million. The stores never reopened. The jobs were gone. Jaeger, which had dressed British royalty and Hollywood stars for 133 years, became a label on an M&S rail.
Why it happened
- Private equity ownership extracted value instead of investing in the business — Better Capital loaded Jaeger with debt and the brand never recovered from the financial engineering.
- The revolving door of owners — Better Capital, then Edinburgh Woollen Mill, then M&S — created constant strategic disruption with no consistent investment in the brand or digital infrastructure.
- Jaeger was a heritage brand with an aging customer base and no e-commerce strategy adequate to survive the high street decline — the same structural problem that killed many British retail names.
- Each successive owner bought the brand name alone, leaving stores and workers behind — asset-stripping that reduced a 133-year-old institution to an IP shell.
The lesson
Private equity doesn't save heritage brands — it prepares them for sale. Each transaction extracts value. Three owners finished what 133 years could not.
Aftermath
The Jaeger brand continues as a label within Marks & Spencer, sold through M&S stores and website. The standalone Jaeger shops — including the flagship on Regent Street — are permanently closed. The company that invented the camel hair coat, dressed Audrey Hepburn, and held a Royal Warrant exists only as a brand name owned by British retail's largest chain. The 133-year-old institution was reduced to an intellectual property asset worth £5 million.
Sources
- Jaeger (clothing) — Wikipedia
- The Guardian — Jaeger goes into administration (10 Apr 2017; 680 jobs at risk, 46 stores; Better Capital bought the firm for £19.5m in 2012; founded as Dr Jaeger's Sanitary Woollen System Co Ltd in 1884 by Lewis Tomalin)
- The Guardian — Edinburgh Woollen Mill acquires Jaeger brand (28 May 2017; Philip Day's EWM bought the retailer's debt and brand name, not the main company; future of most of Jaeger's 700 employees unclear; suppliers owed millions considering legal action)
- BBC News — Peacocks and Jaeger owner falls into administration (19 Nov 2020; Edinburgh Woollen Mill Group failed to find a buyer; 4,700+ jobs and almost 500 shops at risk; Jaeger had 76 stores and concessions)
- BBC News — Marks & Spencer buys Jaeger brand (11 Jan 2021; M&S taking the brand but not Jaeger's stores and concessions; Jaeger had some 63 stores and concessions at sale; 13 stores closed after administrators were appointed; founded in 1884, same year as M&S)
- The Guardian — M&S buys Jaeger fashion brand from administrators (11 Jan 2021; deal excludes the 63 remaining stores; price understood to be in the low millions of pounds; 347 people across 76 stores and concessions)
- FashionUnited.uk — Better Capital acquires Jaeger (16 Apr 2012; Better Capital acquired a 90 per cent stake for £19.5m; Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council, became the majority investor in Jaeger in 2002)
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