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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2025

Café Coton sold 1.2M shirts a year — the rescue kept 5 stores and 40 jobs

Founded 1990, a phoenix of French shirting. April 2025: receivership; May: liquidation, ~100 staff waiting. June: the court sold 5 stores of 19 to BCRI.

Café Coton · 2025-05-06

What happened

Café Coton was created in 1990 by Charles-Augustin Jeuffrain around a single idea: the high-end cotton shirt, made in Egyptian cotton, sold under a deliberately un-British French name. It became a fixture of men's ready-to-wear — 1.2 million shirts a year in France, more than 20 million cumulatively, at accessible prices (four shirts for €99) — and it had already survived hard times, including an earlier safeguard procedure. Its founder came from textile stock: the Jeuffrain family had run weaving works at Louviers since 1815.

By 2025 the model had buckled. The diagnosis offered in the trade press was threefold: designs judged dated, a store network too dense for the sales it produced, and omnichannel sales poorly mastered. In April the company was placed in receivership; by early May it was in judicial liquidation with activity continuing, about 100 employees waiting for a buyer while the brand's future was marketed by the court.

In June 2025 the Bobigny commercial court approved a sale plan in favour of BCRI Holding, chaired by Benoit Crouzatier. The perimeter was surgical: five shops out of nineteen, roughly forty employment contracts, the brand, the stock and the website. The retained stores were the premium-visibility ones — rue de Rivoli, rue de l'Ancienne Comédie, rue Gustave Courbet, Boulogne-Billancourt and a shopping-centre site.

The arithmetic of the rescue tells the case: a network of nineteen shops cut to five, a payroll of about 100 cut to some forty contracts. What survived was the brand name, the best addresses and the lowest fixed-cost base the court's buyer could assemble — the rest of the 35-year-old chain paid for the density it had built.

Why it happened

  • A store network too dense for the turnover it generated — nineteen funds of commerce where the viable core turned out to be five premium addresses
  • Omnichannel sales poorly mastered while the shirt market shifted; the e-site was sold as an asset rather than run as a channel
  • Designs judged dated in a category — men's premium shirting — where Figaret survived only with an investment fund's backing and others did not survive at all
  • The court's sale perimeter shows the verdict: five stores, about forty contracts, the brand and the stock — the remaining fourteen shops and most of the jobs were not part of the future
What it costliquidation; ~60 of 100 jobs and 14 of 19 stores lostcatastrophic

The lesson

Brand fame does not service rent. Café Coton had sold twenty million shirts, but a network built for another era of retail left the court with a viable perimeter: five stores, forty jobs and the name.

Aftermath

BCRI Holding relaunched the brand on the slimmed perimeter — the five premium stores, the stock and the website — with a stated logic of limiting fixed costs and rebuilding on a sound base. Café Coton continues, a phoenix one more time, at roughly a quarter of its former footprint; the fourteen closed addresses and the sixty-odd untransferred jobs mark what thirty-five years of density finally cost.

Sources

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