The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2025
Café Coton sold 1.2M shirts a year — the rescue kept 5 stores and 40 jobs
Founded 1990, a phoenix of French shirting. April 2025: receivership; May: liquidation, ~100 staff waiting. June: the court sold 5 stores of 19 to BCRI.
Café Coton · 2025-05-06
What happened
Café Coton was created in 1990 by Charles-Augustin Jeuffrain around a single idea: the high-end cotton shirt, made in Egyptian cotton, sold under a deliberately un-British French name. It became a fixture of men's ready-to-wear — 1.2 million shirts a year in France, more than 20 million cumulatively, at accessible prices (four shirts for €99) — and it had already survived hard times, including an earlier safeguard procedure. Its founder came from textile stock: the Jeuffrain family had run weaving works at Louviers since 1815.
By 2025 the model had buckled. The diagnosis offered in the trade press was threefold: designs judged dated, a store network too dense for the sales it produced, and omnichannel sales poorly mastered. In April the company was placed in receivership; by early May it was in judicial liquidation with activity continuing, about 100 employees waiting for a buyer while the brand's future was marketed by the court.
In June 2025 the Bobigny commercial court approved a sale plan in favour of BCRI Holding, chaired by Benoit Crouzatier. The perimeter was surgical: five shops out of nineteen, roughly forty employment contracts, the brand, the stock and the website. The retained stores were the premium-visibility ones — rue de Rivoli, rue de l'Ancienne Comédie, rue Gustave Courbet, Boulogne-Billancourt and a shopping-centre site.
The arithmetic of the rescue tells the case: a network of nineteen shops cut to five, a payroll of about 100 cut to some forty contracts. What survived was the brand name, the best addresses and the lowest fixed-cost base the court's buyer could assemble — the rest of the 35-year-old chain paid for the density it had built.
Why it happened
- A store network too dense for the turnover it generated — nineteen funds of commerce where the viable core turned out to be five premium addresses
- Omnichannel sales poorly mastered while the shirt market shifted; the e-site was sold as an asset rather than run as a channel
- Designs judged dated in a category — men's premium shirting — where Figaret survived only with an investment fund's backing and others did not survive at all
- The court's sale perimeter shows the verdict: five stores, about forty contracts, the brand and the stock — the remaining fourteen shops and most of the jobs were not part of the future
The lesson
Brand fame does not service rent. Café Coton had sold twenty million shirts, but a network built for another era of retail left the court with a viable perimeter: five stores, forty jobs and the name.
Aftermath
BCRI Holding relaunched the brand on the slimmed perimeter — the five premium stores, the stock and the website — with a stated logic of limiting fixed costs and rebuilding on a sound base. Café Coton continues, a phoenix one more time, at roughly a quarter of its former footprint; the fourteen closed addresses and the sixty-odd untransferred jobs mark what thirty-five years of density finally cost.
Sources
- FashionUnited — Café Coton : la holding BCRI relance la marque avec un plan de reprise ciblé (14 Aug 2025)
- En-Contact — Café Coton, en liquidation, attend son Général de Gaulle. 20 millions de chemises vendues (6 May 2025)
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