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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2016–2020

Amorepacific pushed Aritaum to 1,300 stores — then closed 306 of them

Amorepacific's Aritaum chain grew to over 1,300 stores, mostly small franchise outlets. Then the market moved online, and 306 stores shut in under two years.

Amorepacific Group · Aritaum · 2020-08

What happened

Aritaum was Amorepacific's multi-brand beauty store chain, carrying products from the group's brands including Laneige, IOPE, and Sulwhasoo alongside other cosmetics. By 2016, the chain had grown to over 1,300 stores across South Korea — mostly small franchise outlets in residential neighbourhoods, competing with CJ Olive Young's larger, experience-driven stores.

The closures began in late 2018, before the pandemic reached Korea. Between late 2018 and August 2020, 306 Aritaum stores were closed. The closures were part of a broader Amorepacific restructuring that saw 661 stores shut across the group — including 204 Innisfree stores and 151 Etude House stores. By August 2020, only 63% of Aritaum's sales still came from physical stores, with 32% online and 5% through Olive Young.

Amorepacific's financial results reflected the severity of the collapse. In Q3 2020, the group's net profit fell 93.1% to 7 billion won ($6.2 million), revenue dropped 22.4% to 1.08 trillion won, and operating profit declined 48% to 56 billion won. The company acknowledged that the pandemic had 'made things drastically worse,' but the closures had started two years before COVID — the structural shift was already underway.

The Aritaum story illustrates the danger of an over-expanded franchise retail model in a market that was already consolidating around a dominant competitor. Amorepacific had built a network of small, undifferentiated outlets that could not compete with CJ Olive Young's curated, experience-driven format, and the shift to online shopping accelerated by the pandemic removed any remaining rationale for the density of physical stores.

Why it happened

  • Amorepacific expanded Aritaum to over 1,300 mostly small franchise outlets, saturating the market with undifferentiated stores that offered no experience advantage over Olive Young.
  • CJ Olive Young captured nearly 90% of the Korean health-and-beauty retail market with a curated, experience-driven format that Aritaum's small franchise model could not match.
  • The shift to online shopping, accelerated by the pandemic, removed the convenience rationale for Aritaum's neighbourhood-store density.
  • Amorepacific's retail strategy treated stores as distribution points rather than brand destinations, leaving the chain vulnerable when the channel shifted online.
What it cost306 stores closed; 661 group-wide; Q3 net profit down 93%costly

The lesson

A franchise retail network built on density rather than differentiation is a liability when the market consolidates around a stronger format — closing stores costs more than opening them.

Aftermath

Amorepacific continued restructuring its retail footprint after 2020. The company opened experience-based flagship stores like Amore Seongsu to replace the closed neighbourhood outlets. Aritaum's online sales share grew to 32% by August 2020, but the chain never returned to its pre-2018 store count. The broader Korean health-and-beauty retail market continued to consolidate around CJ Olive Young, which held approximately 90% market share.

Sources

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