The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 1998–2017
Richemont spent 19 years trying to make Shanghai Tang a luxury brand, then gave it away
The first contemporary luxury brand from China was sold by Richemont in 2017 after failing to convince Chinese consumers to buy their heritage at luxury prices.
Shanghai Tang · Richemont · 2017-07
What happened
David Tang founded Shanghai Tang in Hong Kong in 1994 with an ambitious vision: create the first proudly Chinese luxury brand, built on 1930s Shanghai aesthetics and the craftsmanship of tailors who had left Shanghai for Hong Kong in 1949. Richemont acquired a controlling stake in 1998 and full ownership by 2008, expanding the brand to 34 locations worldwide, from Madison Avenue to Paris to Tokyo.
The expansion repeatedly stumbled. The New York flagship on Madison Avenue closed in less than two years because sales could not justify the rent. In October 2011, the original 6,300-square-foot Hong Kong Pedder Building flagship shut after 17 years when Abercrombie & Fitch offered two-and-a-half times the rent. The brand was too dependent on Western tourists visiting Hong Kong and struggled to appeal to mainland Chinese consumers, who overwhelmingly preferred European luxury houses.
In July 2017, Richemont sold Shanghai Tang to Italian entrepreneur Alessandro Bastagli and Hong Kong private equity fund Cassia Investments for an undisclosed sum, noting 'no material impact' on its financial results. The brand changed hands again in December 2018 to Lunar Capital. Nineteen years of Richemont ownership had not produced a self-sustaining luxury business.
Why it happened
- Chinese consumers associated luxury with European heritage; a Chinese-inspired brand at luxury prices faced a perception gap that marketing could not close.
- The brand's 1930s Shanghai aesthetic appealed to Western nostalgia more than to mainland Chinese consumers' self-image, creating a tourist-dependent revenue base.
- Prime-location rents in New York and Hong Kong demanded sales volumes that a niche heritage brand could not sustain.
- Richemont's portfolio approach — treating Shanghai Tang as a small brand to optimize — underinvested in the brand-building needed to shift consumer perception.
The lesson
A luxury brand cannot be built on heritage alone when the target market associates prestige with a different origin. No amount of prime retail space sells a story consumers do not buy.
Aftermath
Shanghai Tang passed through two more owners after Richemont. From 2020 it became a core brand of UTAN Group and began a new expansion across Singapore, Shanghai and Beijing, positioning itself as a lifestyle brand with cafes and restaurants alongside retail.
Sources
- Richemont — Press release: Richemont sells Shanghai Tang (2017)
- Wikipedia — Shanghai Tang
- Business of Fashion — Richemont Sells Shanghai Tang (2017)
spotted an error? The club wants to know.
More like this
Yao Yao Sour Fish — a mainland chain lasted 4 years in Hong Kong, then vanished
Fortnum & Mason bet on a HK flagship as its first overseas store — it lasted six years
Hermès and Exor spent 15 years building a Chinese luxury brand, then wrote it off
Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →

Comments · 0
Sign in to join the comments.