The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2019–2025
Fosun bought shoemaker Sergio Rossi and starved it — revenue fell 30%, brand for sale
Fosun acquired the heritage shoe brand in 2019 as part of a luxury empire — but under-invested, sales dropped from €42M to €29.5M, and 180 jobs were cut in 2025
Sergio Rossi · 2025-09-11
What happened
Sergio Rossi was founded in 1951 in San Mauro Pascoli, Italy, by the artisan shoemaker of the same name. The brand built a global reputation for handcrafted luxury women's shoes, often called 'the shoes of the stars.' It was acquired by Kering (then PPR) in 1999 and grown into an international luxury footwear label with boutiques from Milan to Tokyo.
Kering sold Sergio Rossi to Investindustrial in 2015 for an undisclosed sum. In 2019, Chinese conglomerate Fosun acquired the brand through its fashion subsidiary (later Lanvin Group), adding it to a portfolio that included Lanvin, Wolford, St. John Knits, and Caruso. The strategy was to build a Chinese-owned luxury group to rival European conglomerates.
Under Fosun, the brand struggled. Fosun's own financial difficulties after 2022 diverted attention and capital from its European brands. Management changes, lack of investment in product development, and an unclear strategic direction saw Sergio Rossi lose ground to competitors. Revenue fell from €41.9M in 2024 to €29.5M in 2025 — a 30% drop in a single year. By September 2025, Lanvin Group was in advanced talks to sell the brand to Massimo Bonini, a Milan-based luxury shoe distributor. A voluntary exit plan was offered to the 180 employees.
Why it happened
- Fosun acquired Sergio Rossi without a clear plan for the brand — it was a portfolio filler, not a strategic priority
- Fosun's own debt crisis after 2022 meant it could not invest the capital needed to sustain a heritage luxury brand
- Multiple owners in 25 years (Kering → Investindustrial → Fosun) meant no stable long-term brand strategy
- Lanvin Group lacked the management depth and synergies to support five disparate heritage brands across different segments
The lesson
Buying heritage brands without the capital and management to sustain them does not create a luxury group — it destroys value one brand at a time
Aftermath
As of September 2025, Lanvin Group was negotiating the sale of Sergio Rossi to Massimo Bonini, an Italian luxury shoe distributor. A collective dismissal procedure was launched for the 180 employees. The sale marked another step in Fosun's retreat from European luxury, following the 2026 divestiture of Caruso.
Sources
- Pambianco — Sergio Rossi to be sold to Massimo Bonini (Sep 2025)
- Fashion Magazine — Fosun ready to sell Sergio Rossi to Bonini (Sep 2025)
- Fashion Magazine — 180 employees, voluntary exit plan (Sep 2025)
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