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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Operational decision · 1963–2009

Oilily was the Dutch colourful fashion brand that went bankrupt twice

Oilily grew from handmade baby clothes to 300 stores worldwide. Then high costs killed it in 1981, and the 2008 crisis killed the revival.

Oilily · 2009-03

What happened

Oilily was founded in 1963 in Tilburg, Netherlands, by Willem and Marieke Olsthoorn. The couple started by making baby clothes for their own child, and the positive response led to a children's clothing line characterised by bright colours and bold patterns. The brand grew steadily through the 1970s and became known for its cheerful, distinctive aesthetic.

In 1981, Oilily filed for its first bankruptcy. The cause was high production costs — the company manufactured in the Netherlands, and Dutch labour costs made it uncompetitive. After the bankruptcy, the founders restarted and moved production abroad, primarily to India. This allowed Oilily to grow into an international business with 300 own stores worldwide and annual revenue of €70–90 million.

In 2003, the Olsthoorn family sold a majority stake to ABN AMRO Participaties and H2 Equity Partners. In March 2009, the company was taken over by the Hollander-Ward couple — the co-owners of H2 Equity — who filed for bankruptcy shortly afterward. The 2008 financial crisis and the collapse of consumer spending destroyed the brand's recovery. After the bankruptcy, the Olsthoorn family bought back the name rights and part of the inventory, relaunching the business from Alkmaar. Oilily continues to exist today but operates at a fraction of its former size.

Why it happened

  • The 1981 bankruptcy was caused by high production costs — Oilily manufactured in the Netherlands, and Dutch labour costs made its colourful clothing too expensive for the market it competed in.
  • Moving production to India after 1981 saved Oilily temporarily, but the 2003 sale to private equity meant the founders no longer controlled the company's direction or its financial risk.
  • The 2009 bankruptcy was triggered when the Hollander-Ward couple took over during the 2008 crisis and filed for bankruptcy almost immediately — the crash had destroyed Oilily's consumer base.
What it costTwo bankruptcies (1981, 2009); 300 stores lostcostly

The lesson

Surviving bankruptcy once taught Oilily how to grow — but giving up control to private equity meant the founders could not protect the business when the next crisis hit.

Aftermath

The Olsthoorn family bought Oilily's name rights and inventory after the 2009 bankruptcy and restarted the business from Alkmaar. In 2016, majority shareholder Willem Olsthoorn fired part of his family from management, generating public controversy. Oilily continues to sell online through oilily.com but is a shadow of the brand that once had 300 stores worldwide. The colourful prints that defined Dutch fashion in the 1980s and 1990s now exist only in a small online operation run by the family that started it all.

Sources

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    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →