Back to the archive

The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 1990–2020

Lucky Brand made jeans for 30 years — then PE debt and COVID killed it

Lucky Brand built 200 stores selling premium denim — PE debt and COVID stopped traffic, and the brand that defined 90s casual sold for $140M in bankruptcy

Lucky Brand · Leonard Green & Partners · SPARC Group · Authentic Brands Group · 2020-07-03

What happened

Lucky Brand was founded in 1990 by Gene Montesano and Barry Perlman in Los Angeles, building a premium denim label that captured the relaxed West Coast aesthetic of the era. By the 2000s, Lucky Brand jeans had become a wardrobe staple — sold through 200+ company-owned stores, outlet locations, wholesale accounts and its e-commerce site. The brand was known for its signature embroidery, fabric patches and a casual look that defined American denim for a generation.

In December 2013, private equity firm Leonard Green & Partners acquired Lucky Brand. The deal loaded the company with debt. Same-store sales declined for years as the denim market shifted toward premium raw selvedge and leggings replaced jeans in women's wardrobes. By 2019, Lucky Brand was struggling with $180 million in debt and interest payments that consumed cash flow needed for store investment and marketing.

When COVID-19 shut down retail in March 2020, Lucky Brand lost its primary sales channel. With 200 stores generating no revenue and $180 million in debt service continuing, the company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on 3 July 2020. SPARC Group — a joint venture of Simon Property Group and Authentic Brands Group — acquired Lucky Brand for $140.1 million in cash plus $51.5 million in credit. The brand survived, but the original founders and PE owners were wiped out.

Why it happened

  • Leonard Green's 2013 acquisition loaded Lucky Brand with debt that consumed cash flow — $180M in debt meant every dollar of profit went to interest, not stores or product
  • The denim market shifted against Lucky Brand — women moved from premium jeans to leggings and athleisure, while men shifted to raw selvedge denim and DTC brands like Bonobos
  • COVID shut 200 stores with no revenue for months — a brand already servicing $180M in debt could not survive zero sales for a single quarter, let alone the months of closures
  • PE ownership stripped the brand of its founder DNA — Montesano and Perlman built an authentic denim label, but financial engineering valued cost-cutting over the product that made the brand
What it cost200 stores, $180M debt, founders and PE wiped outcostly

The lesson

A fashion brand bought by private equity and loaded with debt cannot survive a revenue halt — the interest payments that seemed manageable with stores open become fatal when the doors close.

Aftermath

Lucky Brand filed for Chapter 11 on 3 July 2020 with $180 million in debt. SPARC Group (Simon Property Group + Authentic Brands Group) acquired the brand for $140.1M in cash and $51.5M in credit. About 13 underperforming stores closed. The brand continued as a smaller entity. In 2024, SPARC Group merged with JCPenney to form Catalyst Brands, with ABG holding Lucky Brand's IP. Canadian Lucky Brand stores closed in April 2024 when Ted Baker Canada, their operator, filed for creditor protection.

Sources

spotted an error? The club wants to know.

Comments · 0

    Sign in to join the comments.

    More like this

    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →