Back to the archive

The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2019

Karen Millen and Coast — UK brands sold to Boohoo, stores closed, 1,100 jobs lost

Karen Millen and Coast entered administration in August 2019 — 209 stores closed, 1,100 jobs at risk — Boohoo bought only the online business for £18.2M

Karen Millen · Coast · Boohoo Group · 2019-08-06

What happened

Karen Millen was a British womenswear brand founded in 1981 by Karen Millen and Kevin Stanford, known for tailored, premium clothing targeting professional women. Coast, acquired by the same ownership in 2004, specialised in occasionwear and formal dresses. Both brands were owned by Icelandic bank Kaupthing following the 2008 financial crisis, which had taken control after the bank's collapse. By 2019, the brands operated 32 standalone stores and 177 concessions across the UK, primarily in department stores like Debenhams and House of Fraser.

On 6 August 2019, both brands entered administration after years of declining sales and mounting losses in a brutal retail environment. The physical store model had become unsustainable as footfall fell and rents rose. Boohoo Group acquired the brands' online operations and intellectual property for £18.2 million in a pre-pack administration deal. The deal excluded all physical stores, which were closed immediately. Sixty-two jobs were cut on the spot, and approximately 1,100 employees were put at risk of redundancy.

The acquisition was part of Boohoo's strategy of buying distressed heritage brands and converting them to online-only operations, following similar deals for PrettyLittleThing and Nasty Gal. Karen Millen and Coast continued as digital-only brands under Boohoo's ownership, with no physical retail presence. The case exemplified the shift from bricks-and-mortar to online retail and the growing trend of pure-play online retailers acquiring legacy brands for their customer databases and brand equity.

Why it happened

  • The physical store network had become a liability — 32 standalone stores and 177 concessions in declining department stores could not compete with online-first competitors on price or convenience
  • Ownership by a distressed bank (Kaupthing) meant the brands were starved of investment for a decade — the 2008 crisis left them undercapitalised while the retail market transformed around them
  • Boohoo's £18.2M bid valued only the online operations and brand names — the stores had negative value and no buyer would take them, confirming the physical network was worth less than zero
  • The pre-pack allowed Boohoo to cherry-pick valuable assets while leaving liabilities behind — a pattern that became standard in UK retail
What it cost209 stores closed, 1,100 jobs lostcostly

The lesson

When a brand's physical stores become liabilities rather than assets, a pre-pack sale to an online-only buyer is not a rescue — it is a liquidation of the retail network dressed as a sale.

Aftermath

Karen Millen and Coast entered administration on 6 August 2019. Deloitte were appointed administrators. Boohoo Group acquired the brands' online operations and intellectual property for £18.2 million. All 32 standalone stores and 177 concessions were closed immediately, with 62 immediate redundancies and approximately 1,100 employees at risk. The brands continued as online-only under Boohoo. The deal was criticised for leaving landlords and suppliers unpaid while the brands' digital assets were sold at a discount to a related party.

Sources

spotted an error? The club wants to know.

Comments · 0

    Sign in to join the comments.

    More like this

    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →