Back to the archive

The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 1947–2015

Frederick's of Hollywood invented the push-up bra — then Victoria's Secret took everything

Frederick's of Hollywood was America's lingerie leader for 40 years. By 2015 it had filed for Chapter 11 twice and closed all 111 stores.

Frederick's of Hollywood · Authentic Brands Group · 2015

What happened

Frederick's of Hollywood was founded in 1947 by Frederick Mellinger, who invented the push-up bra and built a mail-order empire selling provocative lingerie that mainstream retailers would not touch. For decades it was the dominant American lingerie brand, with a flagship Hollywood store and a catalogue that reached millions. The brand's risqué image was its identity — and later its trap.

Victoria's Secret, founded in 1977, took the same product and sold it through mall stores with a polished, aspirational image. By the 1980s, Victoria's Secret had overtaken Frederick's. The Victoria's Secret Fashion Show and its Angels marketing machine made Frederick's look dated. Frederick's tried to imitate the mall strategy but never found the same footing.

The company filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2000, emerged in 2003, then merged with Movie Star Inc. in 2006. After being taken private in 2014, it closed all 111 remaining retail stores in 2015 and filed for Chapter 11 a second time. The brand was acquired by Authentic Brands Group and relaunched as an online-only store — its physical retail life was over.

Why it happened

  • Frederick's failed to evolve its brand when Victoria's Secret made lingerie mainstream and aspirational. It stayed 'risqué' while its rival became 'sexy'.
  • The company expanded into malls, but its brand identity was built on mail-order and a single Hollywood store. Mall traffic never justified the leases.
  • Two Chapter 11 filings restructured debt but did not fix the core problem: the brand had lost cultural relevance and could not win back the customer.
What it cost111 stores closed; Chapter 11 twice; brand now online-onlycostly

The lesson

Being first does not protect you. Frederick's invented the category. Victoria's Secret took it by making it mainstream. The pioneer advantage lasts only as long as the brand keeps innovating.

Aftermath

Frederick's of Hollywood was acquired by Authentic Brands Group and continues as an e-commerce brand. All 111 physical stores were closed in 2015. The flagship Hollywood location, a tourist landmark, was also shuttered. Authentic Brands Group licensed the brand for online sales, but it no longer operates standalone retail.

Sources

spotted an error? The club wants to know.

Comments · 0

    Sign in to join the comments.

    More like this

    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →