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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2011–2018

Coin built Milan a Jean Nouvel luxury palace — it lasted seven years

Opened Sept 8, 2011 as Italy's first 'selected multi-store' — 4,000 sqm redesigned by Jean Nouvel; closed Dec 31, 2018, replaced by Victoria's Secret.

Excelsior Milano · Coin Group · 2018-12-31

What happened

Coin Group converted the old Excelsior cinema on Corso Vittorio Emanuele — a Milan landmark since 1928 — into its answer to La Rinascente: a 4,000 sqm luxury multi-store redesigned by Jean Nouvel in his first Milan project, with interiors by Vincenzo De Cotiis. It opened on September 8, 2011 as Italy's first 'selected multi-store' — Gucci, Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Manolo Blahnik upstairs, Tiffany and Ladurée alongside, a two-floor food hall by Eat's below, the fashion curation led by buyer Antonia Giacinti. A second Excelsior in Verona was already planned.

Seven and a half years later, the experiment ended without ceremony: Excelsior Milano closed on December 31, 2018. The luxury multi-store format had been hollowed out from both directions — brands were taking their own stores and their own e-commerce, and the food-and-fashion spectacle no longer paid for seven floors in the centre of Milan. Coin did not confirm the talk of a reopening elsewhere; the building's next tenant was announced soon enough.

What replaced the palace of curation said everything about the market that remained: Victoria's Secret opened its third Italian flagship in the space, in partnership with the Percassi Group. The address survived; the ambition didn't.

Why it happened

  • The multi-store lives on carrying brands the customer can't reach elsewhere; once luxury labels opened their own Milan stores and sites, Excelsior's reason to exist thinned out.
  • A 4,000 sqm spectacle across seven floors needs enormous throughput, and the mix — fashion, food, design, jewelry — spread the risk without securing a loyal lane in any of them.
  • The replacement was the verdict: the space was re-let almost immediately to a Victoria's Secret flagship — the market repriced the address from curated luxury to mass foot traffic.
What it cost4,000 sqm flagship dead at seven yearscostly

The lesson

A department store can't win the luxury decade by curating brands that are building their own doors — when the labels leave for their own flagships, the landlord of taste is left with the rent.

Aftermath

The Verona Excelsior closed too; Victoria's Secret moved into the Galleria del Corso space as its third Italian flagship. Jean Nouvel's Milan debut ended as retail real estate.

Sources

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