The encyclopedia · Advertising & PR · Marketing decision · 2018
D&G taught a Chinese model to eat pizza with chopsticks — Shanghai show cancelled
D&G's 'Eating with Chopsticks' videos mocked Chinese eating. Then Gabbana's racism leaked. China dropped the brand.
Dolce & Gabbana
What happened
In November 2018, ahead of 'The Great Show' — Dolce & Gabbana's flagship runway event in Shanghai — the brand posted a three-part video series called 'Eating with Chopsticks' on Weibo. The videos showed a Chinese model in a D&G dress struggling to eat pizza, spaghetti, and cannoli with chopsticks. A male voiceover instructed her in condescending Mandarin, intentionally mispronounced the brand name, and asked questions like 'Is it too big for you?' The tone was patronising; the framing was orientalist.
When Chinese social media users accused the campaign of racism, co-founder Stefano Gabbana responded in private Instagram messages by calling China a 'country of [shit emojis]' and 'ignorant dirty smelling mafia.' Screenshots of the messages leaked. The leak transformed a tone-deaf campaign into a diplomatic incident.
The backlash was immediate and total. Actresses and models scheduled to appear at the Shanghai show — including Wang Junkai,迪丽热巴, and Chen Kun — withdrew. The Shanghai government cancelled the show the afternoon of November 21. Alibaba's Tmall, JD.com, and Lane Crawford removed D&G products from their platforms. The brand went dark on Chinese e-commerce overnight. On November 23, Dolce and Gabbana posted a video apology saying 'sorry' in Mandarin.
Why it happened
- The creative was orientalist by design: a Chinese model being taught to eat Italian food with chopsticks while a voiceover mocked her is not an accident — it was the concept.
- Gabbana's messages were the detonation: calling China 'ignorant dirty smelling mafia' in private messages turned a tone-deaf campaign into evidence of personal contempt for the market.
- The 'hacked account' defence made it worse: screenshots proved the messages real, and the lie confirmed the brand would not take responsibility.
- The market response was structural: Chinese e-commerce platforms removed D&G entirely — not a fine, not a warning, but disappearance from the channel.
The lesson
A brand that mocks its largest market's culture while its founder calls that market 'ignorant dirty smelling mafia' does not need a better crisis plan. It needs a different founder.
Sources
- NPR — 'Dolce & Gabbana Ad With Chopsticks Provokes Public Outrage in China', 2018-12-01
- BBC News — 'Dolce & Gabbana racism row hits China sales', 2018-11-23
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