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Cheese Uncle (彻思叔叔): from 4.5-hour queues to three stores

A Shanghai bakery drew 4.5-hour queues and 120+ stores in 18 months; counterfeits selling at half price helped end it with three stores left.

彻思叔叔 · 上海香思 · 2014-11

What happened

The 彻思叔叔 cheese-tart boom exploded in Shanghai in 2013: the first store opened in February at the Jiuguang department store, sold a 39 yuan tart, and drew queues of up to 4.5 hours with daily sales past 700 cakes and monthly revenue around one million yuan at the flagship alone. Within 18 months the brand had more than 30 direct stores in Shanghai and franchises in 40+ other cities — over 120 stores in total.

The boom was a race with its own copies. Cheap counterfeits sold a 19 yuan tart against the original's 39 yuan, and by May 2015 a flagship weekday was moving just over 30 cakes. In November 2014 the operator announced it would close 20 of its Shanghai stores and keep about one per district.

The fade-out took four more years: on 20 August 2018 the brand's Hong Kong-listed operator, Bing She International, announced its own delisting and closed the last three retail stores. Its final fiscal year had revenue of about HK$7.6 million and a small operating loss.

Why it happened

  • The brand expanded by franchise before it had any protection: 120+ stores in 18 months thinned out quality and novelty, and nothing stopped 19 yuan copycats from living off the 39 yuan queue.
  • A cheese tart has no moat: it is easy to copy, so the marketing energy that built the queues could not be sustained once copies sat on every mall floor at half the price.
  • The operator paid rent and staff for stores that no longer drew queues — by 2015 a flagship could sell 30 cakes a day — and the 2018 delisting was the last act of a brand that outran its own demand.
What it cost120+ stores down to 3; HK$7.6M revenue; delisted 2018costly

The lesson

A queue is not a moat: the 4.5-hour lines belonged to the novelty, not the brand, so the moment cheaper copies appeared, the queue moved to them.

Aftermath

The last three 彻思叔叔 stores closed in 2018 and the Hong Kong operator delisted. The brand became the template for the 'internet-famous bakery' cycle in China — a queue, a franchise rush, copycats, then closure — a pattern that repeated with dozens of later brands.

Sources

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