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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2000s–2025

Vans was the skate shoe of a generation in China — then 140 stores closed

Vans closed 140 stores globally under VF Corp's restructuring, with China accounting for nearly 25% of the sales decline as the brand lost its streetwear grip.

Vans (范斯) · VF Corporation (威富集团) · 2025-08

What happened

Vans, the iconic skate and streetwear shoe brand owned by VF Corporation, closed 140 stores globally in fiscal 2025 as part of a sweeping restructuring under the 'Reinvent' plan. China was hit disproportionately hard: nearly 25% of Vans' total sales decline in Q4 FY2025 was attributed to the reduction in Chinese stores and channel inventory. The brand that had ridden the skate-shoe and streetwear wave for two decades in China was shrinking fast.

Vans' revenue has declined for three consecutive years: down 24% in FY2024, 16% in FY2025 to $2.35 billion, and a further 14% in Q1 FY2026. The brand's struggles reflect a broader shift in Chinese streetwear taste — from the classic skate aesthetic Vans defined to a mix of domestic sportswear brands, running culture, and luxury sneakers. Vans' core canvas and suede silhouettes struggled against the technical foam and knit sneakers that dominated the Chinese market.

Parent VF Corporation is under its own financial pressure. The company posted a $969 million loss in FY2024, sold Supreme in 2024 at a loss, and has leaned heavily on The North Face to carry the group. The 'Reinvent' plan, led by CEO Bracken Darrell, aims to cut costs and refocus the portfolio, but for Vans it means a smaller, more cautious China footprint with no guarantee that the brand's cultural cachet returns.

Why it happened

  • Vans' skate aesthetic lost relevance as Chinese streetwear shifted to technical running sneakers and local brands — canvas and suede looked outdated against foam soles and knit uppers
  • VF Corp's financial distress forced deep cuts — with a $969M loss and Supreme sale, the parent had no appetite to invest in a Vans turnaround in China
  • Vans over-distributed in China during the streetwear boom — stores relied on trend momentum, not loyalty. When the trend cooled, those stores had no sustainable customer base to fall back on
What it cost140 stores closed globally, 3 years of revenue declinecostly

The lesson

A brand that defined a generation of streetwear can disappear from malls within three years if it does not evolve with what the next generation wears on its feet. Distribution is not demand.

Sources

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