The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2019–2025
25-year Hearst license ended by Trends Group's internal war after founder passed
After Trends Group founder Liu Jiang passed in 2019, internal battles led to contract breaches and Hearst ending the Cosmopolitan and Esquire China licenses.
Trends Group · Hearst Magazines · Trends Magazine Co. Ltd · Beijing Shi Zhi Shang Advertising Co. · 2025-11-10
What happened
Trends Group, founded by Liu Jiang in 1993, became China's most powerful fashion magazine publisher. Through licensing agreements with Hearst Magazines, it published Cosmopolitan (since 1998) and Esquire (since 1996) in Chinese, building two of the country's best-known media brands over 25 years. The relationship was structured with three entities: Trends Magazine Co. Ltd held the license, Beijing Shi Zhi Shang Advertising Co. sold and managed the advertising, and Trends Group oversaw both.
When Liu Jiang died suddenly in 2019, the carefully balanced partnership collapsed. Without its founder, internal control battles erupted between Trends Magazine Co. Ltd and Shi Zhi Shang. In June 2022, Trends Magazine unilaterally terminated the 25-year advertising partnership, was found in breach of contract, and ordered to pay substantial penalties. By July 2022, Shi Zhi Shang had stopped operating the brands. Hearst terminated both license agreements in November 2023, but Trends Magazine continued publishing Cosmopolitan and Esquire without authorization.
A Netherlands arbitration in May 2025 found that Trends Magazine had admitted it was not even a party to the original license agreements — it was only a sub-licensee. Hearst filed a lawsuit against Trends Publishing House in Shanghai Pudong District Court on November 7, 2025; the case was accepted on November 10. The 25-year partnership that built two of China's most recognised fashion media brands was destroyed by internal governance failure after the founder's death.
Why it happened
- Liu Jiang's sudden death in 2019 left Trends Group without a succession plan, triggering a power struggle between the magazine and advertising arms that broke the licensing structure.
- Trends Magazine's unilateral termination of the 25-year advertising partnership with Shi Zhi Shang in June 2022 breached its contractual obligations and forced Hearst to act.
- Trends Magazine continued publishing Cosmopolitan and Esquire for two years after the license was revoked, turning a commercial dispute into an IP infringement lawsuit.
The lesson
A licensing partnership built on one person's relationships has no institutional backbone. When Liu Jiang died, the three-entity arrangement collapsed without governance to hold it.
Aftermath
As of November 2025, Hearst's lawsuit was accepted by Shanghai Pudong District Court. Trends Magazine continued operating Cosmopolitan and Esquire under the Chinese names despite having no valid license. The case highlighted structural risks in China's fashion magazine licensing model, where foreign brands depend on local partners who may lack governance stability after key personnel changes.
Sources
- Update Regarding Cosmopolitan and Esquire China — Hearst Magazines International (Nov 2025)
- Reshuffle in Sight for Chinese Fashion Publishing — WWD (Nov 2023)
- Hearst Sues Trends Publishing House over Cosmopolitan and Esquire — Jiemian (Nov 2025)
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