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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2014–2018

New Look promised 500 stores in China, lost £37m a year, and closed all 120

New Look entered China in 2014 planning 500 stores in three years; it never made money, lost £37m in a year, and in October 2018 closed all 120 stores and left.

New Look · 2018-10-18

What happened

New Look, the British fast-fashion chain, entered mainland China in 2014, opening its first store there that year and running the business itself rather than through a franchise partner. The ambition was enormous: under owner Christo Wiese the company promised to open 500 stores in China within three years — at a time when it ran 94 Chinese stores out of 852 worldwide, with a nearer target of 150 stores by March 2017.

The China venture never became profitable. For the year ending 24 March 2018, New Look's overseas operations — of which China was the bulk — lost more than £37m, inside an overall company swing from a £97.6m profit to a £74.3m loss. Around 20 Chinese stores had already been shut during 2018 as the plan deflated.

On 18 October 2018 New Look announced it would exit China, closing all of its 120 remaining stores by the end of the year. Roughly 730 employees were affected. The company's stated reason was that it had "not achieved the necessary sales and profitability to support the significant future investment required to continue operations", and executive chairman Alistair McGeorge called the retreat a "difficult decision" taken after reviewing trading performance and the investment needed to stay.

Why it happened

  • The 500-stores-in-three-years promise was a store count, not a market plan: the chain expanded ahead of demand and never reached profitability at any scale.
  • The China business was company-owned and company-run, so every store was a fixed cost — 120 leases and 730 staff were all on New Look's own books when the retreat came.
  • The brand had no local advantage to defend: a mid-market British chain competing in a market already served by domestic fast fashion, without the pricing or the product fit to win.
  • By 2018 the market was telling the board the same thing every quarter — sales and margins that could not support the further investment the expansion required.
What it cost£37m lost in one year; 120 stores and 730 jobs gonecostly

The lesson

A market entry promise is not a market entry plan. New Look's China expansion was a store count, not a business model — and when the count did not work, the count became a retreat.

Aftermath

All 120 Chinese stores were closed by the end of 2018 as announced, and roughly 730 employees lost their jobs. The company said it would focus on its home market. The China experiment, which had never made a profit, was written off in full as New Look turned back to the UK — where its wider troubles continued in the years that followed.

Sources

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    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →