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New Guards Group was Farfetch's $675M bet — it filed for bankruptcy after losing Reebok

Farfetch bought New Guards Group for $675M to own brands — five years later it filed for bankruptcy in Italy after losing the Reebok license and owing $300M.

New Guards Group · Farfetch · Authentic Brands Group · Reebok · Coupang · 2024-11-18

What happened

New Guards Group (NGG) was a Milan-based fashion conglomerate founded in 2015 that owned brands including Palm Angels, Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Ambush, Heron Preston, and Unravel Project, and held the license for Off-White. In 2019, Farfetch founder José Neves acquired NGG for $675 million, transforming the e-commerce platform into a brand owner and shifting its strategy toward vertical fashion ownership.

The centrepiece of NGG's strategy was the Reebok license for Europe. Farfetch created a division called NGG++ to house the Reebok business, but plans fell apart within seven months. In November 2024, Authentic Brands Group terminated NGG's Reebok distribution license after the two parties failed to agree on new terms. NGG owed ABG an estimated $300 million in unpaid royalty payments.

Two weeks later, on November 18, 2024, NGG filed for a CNC restructuring process (Composizione Negoziata per la Soluzione della Crisi d'Impresa) under Italian bankruptcy law. The filing came amid Farfetch's own collapse — the company was rescued by Coupang in late 2023 with $500 million in emergency funding. NGG continued operating while seeking a buyer, weighed down by the $300M debt and the loss of its most valuable license.

Why it happened

  • Farfetch paid $675M for NGG to own fashion brands instead of just selling them — but NGG's business depended entirely on the Reebok license, which was terminated after just seven months of operation
  • NGG owed Authentic Brands Group $300M in unpaid royalties for Reebok — when ABG pulled the license, NGG lost its revenue source and had no way to service the debt
  • Farfetch itself collapsed in late 2023 and was rescued by Coupang, which focused on the e-tail business and left NGG without strategic support — the parent could not save its subsidiary
What it cost$675M deal, $300M debt, lost Reebok license, bankruptcycostly

The lesson

Buying a brand conglomerate is not the same as building one. Farfetch paid $675M for NGG but the entire business hung on one licensing deal that could be cancelled at any time.

Sources

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    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →