Back to the archive

The encyclopedia · Sales & Retail · Operational decision · 1999–2025

Modes ran Italy's boldest concept stores — Milan's court ordered it liquidated

About twenty stores from Trapani to rue François 1er, €100M in sales, tens of millions in debt. The court: insolvency with no adequate means to meet it.

Modes

What happened

The Carpinteri family had sold fashion in Trapani, Sicily since 1971 under the name Stefania Mode; in 1999 they incorporated Modes, and in 2019 rebranded the whole operation around it — a high-end multibrand concept store carrying premium contemporary labels, with an e-shop and ambitions that outran the island. By 2022 it ran about twenty stores, including addresses in Paris and Switzerland, and in 2023 it booked roughly €100 million in revenue.

The deterioration began with the autumn-winter 2021–22 season and compounded: the Trapani logistics hub closed at the end of 2023, the French subsidiary was liquidated in December 2024 (taking the rue François 1er store with it), and debts ran to several tens of millions of euros. In the first quarter of 2025, EBITDA was minus €5.3 million. A chief executive hired in 2024 to restructure the business resigned in March 2025.

Modes applied for bankruptcy protection in December 2024; the Milan court revoked the procedure instead, finding 'a serious degree of insolvency... seemingly without adequate means to deal with the situation', and ordered judicial liquidation. Owner Aldo Carpinteri has said he hopes to continue the business through a new company leasing the Modes name. Fifty years of Sicilian retail ended on a court finding that the losses had simply outrun every available rescue.

Why it happened

  • Expansion to Paris and Milan priced the business for luxury's good years; when consumer behaviour shifted, the flagship rents stayed and the footfall did not.
  • A multibrand retailer owns neither the brands it sells nor the customers' loyalty to them — when the traffic thins, there is no proprietary product to fall back on.
  • Bankruptcy protection requires a credible continuation; when the court sees losses with no funding behind the plan, protection converts to liquidation.
What it cost€100M retailer, liquidatedcatastrophic

The lesson

Flagship addresses are fixed costs wearing the costume of brand equity — if the footfall leaves, the rent remains, and a court will ask for the funding plan before it grants the time.

Sources

spotted an error? The club wants to know.

Comments · 0

    Sign in to join the comments.

    More like this

    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →