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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2007–2020

Kalevala Koru was too tied to ancient burial jewelry to sell to modern Finns

Finland's iconic jewelry brand lost money for years, halved its retail network, and was forced into restructuring in 2020 — trapped by its own heritage.

Kalevala Koru Oy · Lapponia Jewelry · 2020

What happened

Kalevala Koru was founded in 1937 to produce jewelry inspired by ancient Finnish artefacts from the Kalevala epic. Owned by the Kalevala Women's Association, it grew into Finland's most recognised jewelry brand. By 2007, revenue had reached €23 million and the company employed 230 people. It acquired Lapponia Jewelry in 2005.

Over the following decade, revenue declined steadily. The brand's identity was tied to ancient Finnish burial jewellery — a strong image that made it difficult to attract younger customers. By 2019, the company had been loss-making for years. Revenue had fallen to approximately €11.5 million, and the company posted a loss of €1.8 million. Employee count had dropped from 230 to 91.

In September 2020, Talouselämä magazine reported that Kalevala Koru was facing a forced restructuring. A new CEO, Kirsi Paakkari, was appointed in 2019. The company closed its flagship store on Pohjoisesplanadi in Helsinki, cut its distribution network from 300 to 150 retailers, merged Lapponia and Kalevala Jewelry under a single brand, simplified the product range to three collections, and shifted focus to e-commerce. The factory building had been sold in 2018.

Why it happened

  • The brand's identity was so strongly tied to ancient Finnish burial jewellery that younger consumers saw it as old-fashioned — a heritage trap that made it hard to reach new demographics.
  • Revenue declined from €23M to €11.5M over a decade — a structural decline, not a cyclical one — and the company had no answer for it.
  • Its owner was a non-profit association with no record of turning a commercial business around — the structure gave it stability and no way to move quickly
  • The 2005 acquisition of Lapponia Jewelry added complexity without solving the core problem: an ageing customer base and a brand that did not appeal to younger buyers.
What it cost€1.8M lost on €11.5M; 230 staff down to 91costly

The lesson

Heritage is an asset only as long as the next generation wants to buy it. A brand that cannot update its story for a new audience is a museum, not a business.

Aftermath

Kalevala Koru survived the restructuring. The new brand identity launched in autumn 2020, with a simplified product range and a new flagship store on Keskuskatu. The company continues to operate, but at a substantially smaller scale than its 2007 peak. The case is taught in Finnish business schools as an example of how a strong heritage brand can become a liability.

Sources

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    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →