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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2023

Hunter — Wellington boot pioneer collapsed under £112M of debt

The 167-year-old heritage Wellington boot maker entered administration in June 2023 — £112.8M debt, 121 employees, brand IP sold to Authentic Brands Group

Hunter Boots · Authentic Brands Group · HBL Realisations Limited · 2023-06-05

What happened

Hunter was founded in 1856 in Scotland and became famous for the original Wellington boot. For more than 160 years it manufactured rubber footwear, building a reputation as a durable all-weather brand with two royal warrants. In the 2010s, Hunter was transformed from a functional wellington maker into a lifestyle fashion brand, propelled by celebrity fans at Glastonbury and expanded its range to footwear, outerwear, bags, and accessories sold through its own stores, concessions, and wholesale partners worldwide.

By 2023 the company was drowning in debt. Total debts had reached £112.8 million, including £11.5 million owed to UK trade creditors. Hunter blamed a combination of climate change (warmer, drier weather reducing seasonal demand for wellingtons), pandemic-related supply chain disruptions, and the cost-of-living crisis. The company had secured a £7 million funding lifeline earlier in 2023 and was put up for auction in March, but could not find a solvent buyer. On 5 June 2023, Hunter Boots entered administration, employing 121 people of whom 11 were made redundant immediately.

Authentic Brands Group, which also owns Ted Baker and Reebok, acquired Hunter's intellectual property in a pre-pack administration deal reportedly worth nearly £100 million. The Batra Group became the core licensee for the UK and Europe, responsible for designing, producing, and operating retail stores, wholesale, and e-commerce in the region. Marc Fisher Footwear took on the US license. The operating company was renamed HBL Realisations Limited. The brand name continues as a licensing asset, but the original manufacturing and retail business that built it was dissolved.

Why it happened

  • Hunter's expansion from a wellington boot specialist to a full lifestyle brand — footwear, outerwear, bags, accessories — stretched its identity beyond what the original business was built to support
  • The brand's success relied on a celebrity trend cycle and weather patterns — when both moved on, the core wellington product lost its pull and lifestyle expansion could not replace the lost revenue
  • Heavy debt of £112.8M from years of expansion left no margin for error when post-pandemic headwinds — supply chain disruption, inflation, consumer spending shifts — hit all at once
  • The pre-pack sale of the brand IP to Authentic Brands meant the original operating company ceased — the brand name continued as a licensing asset but the infrastructure that built it was dissolved
What it cost£112.8M debt, 121 employees, brand IP sold to ABGcostly

The lesson

A heritage brand that expands beyond its core product must invest during the upswing rather than load up on debt — the financing costs of expansion can outlive the trend that paid for it

Aftermath

Hunter Boots was renamed HBL Realisations Limited and dissolved after administration. Authentic Brands Group acquired the brand's intellectual property for approximately £100 million. The Batra Group operates Hunter's branded retail stores, wholesale and e-commerce in the UK and Europe under license. Marc Fisher Footwear holds the US license. Hunter continues as a brand owned by ABG, licensed to operators, but no longer as the integrated manufacturing and retail company founded in 1856. The 121 employees faced redundancy or transfer to the acquiring licensees.

Sources

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    Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →