The encyclopedia · Legal & Compliance · Legal decision · 2023–2025
Hearst pulled the licence — the Chinese publisher kept printing Cosmopolitan anyway
Trends Publishing House kept using the Cosmopolitan and Esquire names after Hearst ended its China licence in 2023; Hearst sued in Shanghai in November 2025.
Trends Publishing House · Hearst Magazines · 2025-11-07
What happened
Trends Group, founded in Beijing in 1993 by former travel journalists Liu Jiang and Wu Hong, built China's biggest fashion-magazine publisher by licensing Western titles: Esquire from 1996 and Cosmopolitan from 1998, run in China as 时尚先生Esquire and 时尚COSMO. On November 22, 2023, Hearst Magazines announced it was terminating both China licence agreements with immediate effect.
Trends Media Group said publicly that it had already stopped operating the Cosmopolitan and Esquire brand businesses since July 2022 and would respect Hearst's decision — but its publishing arm, Trends Publishing House (TPH), kept printing magazines and posting on social media under both names. A May 2025 arbitration ruling in the Netherlands found TPH had never actually been a party to the original licence agreements, undercutting its claim to any continued right to the names.
TPH did not comply with Hearst's cease-and-desist demand. On November 7, 2025, Hearst filed a trademark-infringement lawsuit against TPH in China to enforce the termination; the Shanghai Pudong New Area People's Court accepted the case on November 10, 2025 — two years after the licence had already ended.
Why it happened
- A licensee that keeps trading under a terminated brand converts an ordinary commercial wind-down into years of intellectual-property litigation.
- An arbitration ruling establishing TPH was never a licensed party removed its last plausible defense before the China lawsuit was even filed.
The lesson
Ending a licence does not end the licensee's use of the brand — enforcement is a separate, slower fight, and a publisher can keep printing under a dead licence for years before a court intervenes.
Aftermath
The Shanghai Pudong court accepted Hearst's case on November 10, 2025; Trends Publishing House continued operating under the disputed names as the litigation proceeded.
Sources
- Is a Reshuffling in Sight for Chinese Fashion Publishing? — WWD (Nov 2023, updated 2025)
- Update Regarding Cosmopolitan and Esquire China — Hearst Magazines International
- 五大变四大?《时尚COSMO》中国商标和版权许可被终止 — 财富中文网
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