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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2018–2026

Cover FX winds down after sales collapse

A Canadian makeup brand that pioneered inclusive shades saw sales fall from $65M to $20M, lost Sephora and Ulta, and was shut down by its parent in 2026.

Cover FX

What happened

Cover FX was founded in 1999 by chemist Victor Casale and Lee Graff in a Toronto medical clinic. The brand initially sold through dermatologist referrals before expanding into retail, becoming known for inclusive shade ranges and skin-sensitive formulas. It gained popularity through social media influencers in the 2010s and was acquired by private equity firm L Catterton in 2011.

By 2018, Cover FX was generating $65 million in annual gross sales. But the brand lost its Sephora account in 2021 and Ulta account in 2022, cutting off its two largest retail channels. Sales collapsed to $20 million by early 2022 — a 69% decline in under four years. The brand shifted to direct-to-consumer, Amazon, and QVC, but the revenue was not there.

In 2022, AS Beauty acquired Cover FX from L Catterton. An attempted rebrand in 2024 drew customer backlash for shrinking the diverse shade range that had been the brand's core differentiator. In January 2026, AS Beauty announced it would wind down both Cover FX and Mally Beauty, citing tariffs, rising costs, and a shifting global market. The parent company chose to concentrate resources on higher-growth brands in its portfolio.

Why it happened

  • Cover FX lost its Sephora account in 2021 and Ulta account in 2022, cutting off the two largest channels for prestige cosmetics in North America
  • Sales collapsed from $65M in 2018 to $20M by early 2022, a 69% decline in under four years as the brand shifted to DTC, Amazon, and QVC
  • An attempted rebrand in 2024 drew customer backlash for shrinking the diverse shade range that had been the brand's core differentiator
  • Parent company AS Beauty, facing tariffs and rising costs, chose to shutter both Cover FX and Mally Beauty rather than continue investing in legacy brands with declining revenue
  • The closure in January 2026 ended a 25-year run for a brand that had pioneered inclusive shade ranges and was once a social media darling with $65M in annual sales
What it costSales fell 69% to $20M; lost Sephora & Ultacostly

The lesson

Losing retail distribution is a death spiral for a cosmetics brand. Without Sephora and Ulta, Cover FX was a DTC brand with wholesale costs but no revenue. No social campaign could rebuild that.

Sources

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