Carolina Herrera used Mexican embroidery without permission — Mexico filed a complaint

In June 2019, Mexico's Ministry of Culture sent a formal letter to Carolina Herrera and creative director Wes Gordon accusing the brand of cultural appropriation in its Resort 2020 collection. The collection featured embroidery patterns from three distinct Mexican regions: Tenango de Doria in Hidalgo, the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in Oaxaca, and the Saltillo sarape from Coahuila.

Culture Secretary Alejandra Frausto asked for a public explanation of how the designs were used and whether the communities would benefit from sales. She wrote that the embroideries carry the community's history and each element has personal, family and community meaning. It was the first time a national government had formally accused a fashion brand of cultural appropriation.

Carolina Herrera responded through a spokesman that the brand recognizes Mexican artisans' work and that the collection was inspired by the culture's rich colours and artisanal techniques. The incident became a landmark case in the fashion industry's ongoing debate about cultural borrowing versus appropriation.