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The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2020

Brooks Brothers, oldest US clothier, filed Chapter 11 in 2020 after 202 years

America's oldest clothing brand filed Chapter 11 in July 2020 — COVID killed suit demand, casual shift accelerated.

Brooks Brothers

What happened

Brooks Brothers was founded in Manhattan in 1818 as America's first ready-to-wear clothing store. For over two centuries it dressed US presidents (40 of 46), dressed Wall Street, and defined the American suit. By 2019 it operated 424 stores globally with annual sales around $1 billion, but the brand had been struggling with a secular shift toward casual workwear and online competition that had flattened sales since 2017.

The COVID-19 pandemic hit Brooks Brothers with devastating timing. Office closures and remote work eliminated demand for the formal business attire that was the company's core product. In May 2020, the company began seeking a buyer. In June it proposed closing its three American factories — a dramatic reversal for a brand built on 'Made in America.' On July 8, 2020, Brooks Brothers filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection with less than $300 million in debt.

The bankruptcy closed 51 of its 250 North American stores, including its historic Madison Avenue flagship. In September 2020, a joint venture between Authentic Brands Group and Simon Property Group bought the company out of bankruptcy for $325 million. The new owners committed to operating at least 125 US stores. The 202-year-old brand survived but shrank to less than a third of its pre-pandemic footprint.

Why it happened

  • COVID-19 and remote work eliminated demand for suits almost overnight — the core product of a 202-year-old brand built on formal business attire.
  • The secular shift toward casual workwear had flattened sales since 2017, leaving Brooks Brothers with too many stores and too much manufacturing capacity.
  • At $1B in sales and $300M in debt, Brooks Brothers had no margin to weather months of closures — its product line could not pivot to the categories that kept other retailers afloat.
  • Brooks Brothers was too reliant on office workers and formal events; when both disappeared simultaneously, the business model had no second revenue stream to fall back on.
What it cost51 stores closed; sold for $325M after 202 yearscostly

The lesson

A brand built on a dress code is only as durable as that dress code. When remote work killed the suit, Brooks Brothers had no product diversification to fall back on.

Aftermath

Brooks Brothers was purchased out of bankruptcy by Authentic Brands Group and Simon Property Group for $325 million in September 2020. The company survived but with a drastically smaller footprint: at least 125 US stores versus 424 globally before the pandemic. In May 2025, the brand opened a new flagship store in Lower Manhattan near its original 1818 location. The case illustrates how a brand identity tied to a specific dress code can become a liability when social norms around clothing change — especially when that change is accelerated by an external shock.

Sources

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