The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 1781–2009
Asprey made tiaras for queens for 200 years — then private equity broke it
Asprey was the world's oldest luxury jeweller, sold for £244M in 1995. By 2006, it was forced to sell its crown jewels to survive.
Asprey · Asprey & Garrard · Sciens Capital Management · Plainfield Asset Management · 2006-12-31
What happened
Asprey was founded in 1781 by William Asprey in London, making it one of the world's oldest luxury goods companies. For seven generations, the Asprey family supplied silver, jewellery, and leather goods to British royalty and international aristocracy. The company held multiple royal warrants and was known for its flagship store at 112 Regent Street.
In 1995, Prince Jefri Bolkiah of Brunei bought Asprey for £244 million through his Amedeo Development Corporation. The Asprey family received over £100 million but retained only 10%. After poor performance following the acquisition, the company was forced to sell off its crown jewels — Mappin & Webb, Watches of Switzerland, and Hamilton & Inches — in 1998. The company was renamed Asprey & Garrard.
In 2006, after ownership by Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, Asprey was sold to US private equity firms Sciens Capital Management and Plainfield Asset Management. In 2009, Hermès purchased the freehold of Asprey's flagship New Bond Street store, forcing the brand to become a leaseholder. The jeweller that had supplied British royalty for two centuries was now a private equity asset without even owning its own store.
Why it happened
- Prince Jefri's £244M acquisition overpaid for a heritage brand with no plan to modernise it — the debt load from the purchase forced the sale of Asprey's best assets within three years.
- Asprey was a 200-year-old family business that never learned to compete in the modern luxury market — its model of selling to the aristocracy did not translate to the global luxury boom of the 1990s.
- Private equity ownership (Sciens, Plainfield) treated Asprey as a financial asset rather than a luxury house — no investment in the brand, no new products, just cost-cutting and asset sales.
The lesson
A royal warrant is not a business strategy. Asprey had the Queen's custom but no plan for the 21st century — and £244M of Brunei money only accelerated the decline it was meant to reverse.
Aftermath
Asprey continues to operate from 36 Bruton Street in Mayfair, London, having moved from its historic New Bond Street location in 2021. The brand still sells luxury jewellery, silver, and leather goods, but it is a shadow of the company that once supplied the British Empire. The Asprey family no longer has any involvement. The brand that was the world's oldest luxury jeweller is now a small private equity portfolio company.
Sources
spotted an error? The club wants to know.
More like this
Garrard made the Crown Jewels for 164 years — then lost the appointment and was sold off
Links of London collapsed in 2019 after its owner's accounting scandal cut it off
W H Darby, insignia maker since 1886, filed for administrators — a sale saved 40 jobs
Somewhere, someone solved the problem this company failed at. 2nd Opinion →

Comments · 0
Sign in to join the comments.