The encyclopedia · Strategy & Leadership · Strategic decision · 2022–2025
Amorepacific kept betting on single-brand stores while Olive Young ate the format
Amorepacific's Aritaum and Innisfree stores shrank 9–19% in a year while CJ Olive Young, selling every brand under one roof, grew revenue 21.8% to a record.
Amorepacific · CJ Olive Young · 2025-08
What happened
Amorepacific built its Korean retail presence on single-brand storefronts: Aritaum sold only Amorepacific-family cosmetics, and Innisfree ran its own dedicated stores nationwide, following a roadshop model that had defined Korean beauty retail for over two decades.
That model kept losing ground through 2025. Aritaum's franchise count fell from 410 to 372 stores in a single year, down 9.3%. Innisfree's franchise stores fell harder, from 234 to 190, down 18.8%. A third single-brand chain, Tonymory, lost 12.6% of its stores over the same period. Nationwide, the number of cosmetics storefronts fell by nearly 2,000 in a year, a 5.4% drop, with the average franchise store's revenue down 12.6% and a 15.9% closure rate.
CJ Olive Young ran the opposite playbook — one store selling every brand a shopper wanted, from mass-market to prestige, alongside skincare devices and supplements. While single-brand roadshops shrank, Olive Young's revenue grew 21.8% to a record ₩5.8335 trillion, cementing the multi-brand collection-store format as the format Korean beauty shoppers actually wanted.
Amorepacific's response was to fold its surviving single-brand stores into Olive Young's own shelves, redirect investment to e-commerce, and expand overseas — an admission that the storefront model it had run for over two decades no longer worked domestically, arriving only after years of the two formats moving in opposite directions.
Why it happened
- Amorepacific kept operating single-brand-only storefronts for years after Korean shoppers had visibly shifted toward multi-brand collection stores, rather than converting its retail footprint sooner.
- A single-brand store cannot offer the comparison shopping and discovery that drove Olive Young's growth, so Amorepacific's stores lost the very customers most likely to browse across brands.
- The company only began redirecting toward Olive Young shelf space, e-commerce and overseas markets after its franchise network had already shed hundreds of stores, not while it still had scale.
The lesson
A format that once defined a market does not fail all at once — waiting until a rival format has taken years of share makes the eventual pivot far smaller than the loss it answers.
Aftermath
Amorepacific moved its remaining single-brand retail toward Olive Young placement, online platforms and overseas expansion. Olive Young's dominance of Korean beauty retail continued unchallenged by any competing multi-brand format, while Aritaum, Innisfree and Tonymory continued closing stores faster than they opened new ones.
Sources
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